Q1, 2022

Typical Norwegian red house at Ullsfjorden. Nikon Z7ii, Nikkor 85mm lens, 1/40 sec, f7.1, ISO 80

After a direct flight, we planned to arrive on a Saturday evening at Tromso airport. The plan includes also to catch the latest ferry of the day, to prevent a drive around the fjords for 3 hours to our mountain cabin. The challenge that we have imposed on ourselves after landing is to use efficiently 105 minutes, to pass the customs, get the luggage, a car, groceries for a week and drive at least 55 minutes to the port. This is our plan, if the plane is on schedule.

The reality is that we landed on time in a snow shower, in the dark, have been driving on completely ice covered roads, in an unfamiliar car, in unknown terrain with snow flakes dancing around us. Eventually, we had three minutes spare time before embarking. Let’s define it as “slack” in the planning. There is this Norwegian saying, “a good adventure starts with bad planning”. I can assure you, that a solid plan with tight timelines can evoke adventurous feelings as well.

Next morning, at daylight, the 180 degree vista from our lovely little comfortable and warm house at sea level across the fjord is mind blowing. Nothing reminds, nor refers to any previous experience. The arctic is of a different order, of another magnitude than the Alps, Iceland, Patagonia, or anything else. The light in March is undescribably different, warm and cold at the same time. It for sure is soft, has lots of blue and violet hues with a little orange at sunrise and sunset, has a low angle, offers a long sunrise and sunset period. The sun and clouds are playing a game of hide and seek, lighting and shadowing the snow covered gentle sloped and steep mountains walls across the fjord. In short, it is paradise for photographers.
Meanwhile, a sea eagle is catching pray, dolphins are jumping in the water, a few fishing boats are passing by as well as an American destroyer. Once you open the door of the cabin to go outside the first time, you shiver: the Nordic chill factor isn’t cold or icy, you just freeze of in seconds.
This is how the arctic welcomes you.

Northern Lyngen Alps, classical view from Svingen, Nikon Z7ii, Nikkor 85mm lens, 1/1250 sec, f1.8, ISO 50. Five vertical images stitched together into one horizontal panorama image

The rest of the plan for this week is to go out ski touring, from sea to summit and summit to sea.
The reality is that we have been few summits thanks to all imaginable weather types. We have seen great vistas. We have spend hours skinning uphill with crampons on ice, enjoying zero visibility in a snow blizzard with a type of heavy wind gusts I am unfamiliar with. Some days the gusts where so strong, that to prevent being blown away, the most opportune decision one could make was turning around underneath a summit. We even skied uphill thanks to the strong wind. Of course, we have also been skiing downhill, on snow blown hard ice, in soaked watery wet snow in a dense birch forest, as well as in the purest knee deep best powder ever.
The are so many mountain peaks, such as Storgalten, Steinfjellet, Ololsatinden, Stetinden, Russelvfjellet. Or just select a less familiar one, park your car on a safe spot near the street at sea level and take off. Anyway, you can also choose for less adventurous outings and daytime activities, like hiking, reading a book, mindful yoga excersises on the terrace, go for a dip and if you are brave enough for a short swim in the 2,5 degrees celcius ocean water.
The Lyngen Alps, this part of the arctic, is pure, rough, wild and drops you back to basics. If you go out for ski touring every day, eventually, the scenery and the weather will let you embrace the arctic adventure from sea to summit and summit to sea.

Lyngen Alps, Norway. From sea to summit and summit to sea.

Brenta dolomites: the vertical world of via ferrata

Aiguille du Dru, Chamonix Mont Blanc, one of the most impressive rock walls of the Alps